GREEK CITIES
AND GREEK ISLANDS
ABOUT ARACHOVA
The main attraction and destination here on
Parnassos is, of course, Delphi. As you approach
it from Arachova, you will see the twin peaks,
the Phaedriades (Shining Rocks) that hover over
the site. There was some settlement here by at
least 1400 BC, and Minoan remains of this period
have been found. Some Greek myths claimed that,
many centuries before the Classical Age of
Greece, the site was sacred to the goddess
Ge
(Gaea), usually regarded as Mother Earth. Her
son, Python, a serpent, guarded a cave here, and
adjacent to this was an oracle where a
priestess, known as the Pythia, delivered the
wise words inspired by Gaea. At some point - at
least by 800 BC - a cult that worshipped Apollo
was introduced here; in some myths, Apollo
killed the serpent - suggesting the replacement
of the older matriarchal religion by the
male-based Olympian religion. In any case, the
site soon became known as the Sanctuary of Pythian Apollo, and visits to the oracle became
a major goal of individuals from all over Greece
and the eastern Mediterranean (much like a
pilgrimage today to Mecca or the Vatican).
Around the same time, the Amphictyonic League, a
confederation of neighboring cities in southern
Greece, was founded to administer the sanctuary.
Meanwhile, Greeks held the Pythian Games here,
one of the four such pan Hellenic festivals (of
which the Olympics is the best known)
combinations of athletic contests and artistic
performances that were originally held every
eight years but in 582 BC changed to every four
years.
Delphi and its oracle remained at the center of
Greek life for many centuries so important that
it often provoked wars among Greek city-states
to see who would control it. After the Romans
took over Greece early in the 2nd century, the
emperors showed more interest in plundering the
site of its
many riches than maintaining the
oracle. And about AD 385, Theodosius, the
emperor who banished all pre Christian practices
in the empire, officially abolished the oracle:
when the Pythia issued her last prophecy, the
temples lalon idor (speaking water) was
extinguished forever. Over the centuries the
buildings fell into disrepair, and isolated as
the site was, it was all but forgotten until it
was rediscovered in 1676 by an Englishman and
Frenchman traveling through the region. More
than a century later, in 1812, the famous
British poet Lord Byron visited the site and
described it as a landscape full of religious
terror. Intermittent excavating began in 1840,
but it was 1891 before the King of Greece
assigned to the French the right to commence
formal excavations, revealing over the years the
site that now amazes visitors from all over the
world.
General Information:
Arachova: The Chic Mainland Village
There is no denying that the Greek islands have
emerged in recent years as the image and
destination of popular tourism, and there is
equally no denying the appeal of these islands.
But the Greeks themselves, from time immemorial,
have also been drawn to the mountains that
dominate so much of their land. Every
schoolchild knows that the Greeks located the
home of their gods on Mt. Olympos, the highest
peak in Greece. Fewer modern visitors are aware
that the second highest peak in Greece is
located on Mt. Parnassos and that this mountain
was regarded by the ancient Greeks as a home of
Dionysos and his female followers, the Maenads
(in their ecstatic abandon, the Maenads were the
antithesis of
the orderly Olympian gods). The
Roman poets later made Parnassos the home of the
Muses, but it was on the rocky slopes of Mt.
Parnassos that far back in time certain Greeks
in awe of the dramatic peaks and springs and
caves and the reputed exhalations from a chasm
on the site established the world-famous oracle
of Delphi.
Delphi and the various sites around Arachova
In ancient times Delphi eventually became so
influential in Greeks affairs that they regarded
it as the center of the earth, signified by the
navel stone (omphalos) found here. Today, Delphi
is one of the most spectacular and resonant
archaeological locales in the world, and a visit
to the site provides a fascinating encounter
with a side of ancient Greece different from the
Classical image of white-columned temples.
Complementing this will be a visit to the
medieval Monastery of Osios Loukas Christian
rather than pagan, a retreat for individuals as
opposed to a gathering place for crowds, but
expressive of the same sense of awe inspired by
this mountainous environment. Moreover, by using
the mountain town of Arachova as a base, you
have the opportunity to experience the authentic
life of Greek towns and villages, freed from the
overlay of mass tourism, especially on weekdays.
And finally, after descending from the mountains
you can round out this phase of your time in
Greece by making your way to the Peloponnese
along the Gulf of Corinth.
Leisure in Arachova
Arachova is a lively mountain town with a
permanent population of some 3,500 people. Until
the second half of the 20th century it was
known
only to the relatively small numbers of people
who made the journey up Parnassos to visit
Delphi. Although there are a few remains of the
prehistoric settlements and Classical town in
the area, those provide nothing of interest for
the average visitor. In dramatic contrast, it is
the mountainous setting that will immediately
attract your attention the terraced slopes
supporting gray-stone houses with their red
tiled roofs, the streams of water often running
along the village, or the narrow streets that
may remind you of times past. And, of course,
your eyes will be caught by the colorful rugs
and embroideries that the local people make, but
the best part comes when you try the various tavernas and restaurants in or around Arachova.
It is then that you will be inevitably impressed
by the local wines, cheese, meat delicacies or
honey that accompany the local cuisine.
Because Arachova is now frequented year round by
visitors to Delphi during the extended tourist
season and by (mostly Greek) skiers during the
winter it is undeniably a prosperous town with
more than its share of restaurants and hotels to
make the visitor comfortable. The principal ski
center where the lifts to the ski slopes begin
is actually at Fterolakas, some 16 miles (26 km)
further up the mountain. But even if you do not
have the opportunity to ski here, you will enjoy
the experience of walking around Arachova,
taking in the sights and sounds and activities
of a vibrant Greek community. The main street is
lined with shops selling the textiles and
handicrafts for which this town has long been
renowned and which you can certainly admire even
if you are not in the mood to purchase anything.
When you have had your fill of these shops, you
can ascend the stairs to the upper town and
observe the more domestic life of Greek mountain
villagers and visit the fine old Church of Agios
Georgios (St. George), or settle in one of any
number of cafes for a refreshing drink. All in
all, there is something very special about
relaxing in Arachova: taking in its clear
air
and its mountainous terrain, you can feel that
you are experiencing the natural realm of Greece
that inspired those ancients to locate their
gods here!
Monastery of Osios Loukas
The other major historical destination of
visitors who have come to Arachova is the
Monastery of Osios Loukas (Blessed Loukas, but
often referred to in writings as St. Loukas),
some 16 miles (26 Km) southeast of Arachova.
This monastic complex is regarded as one of the
most impressive in all of Greece both because of
its natural setting and its artistic
workmanship. This Luke is not the Biblical
Evangelist but a local Christian hermit monk who
died here in AD 953. The smaller church on the
site, the Theotokos, is evidently on the site of
a church built here before Loukas died. But the
larger church, the Catholicon, was erected in
1011 - 1048 and although considerably enlarged
and renovated over the centuries, it remains a
most impressive work of medieval ecclesiastical
architecture. In particular the mosaics and the
frescoes speak to even those not familiar with
such works. Although there are only a few monks
here now, more like caretakers, Osios Loukas
still exudes a sense of spirituality, and people
of all faiths and from all over the world have
felt that a visit to the monastery of Osios
Loukas is a moving and rewarding experience.
En Route to the Gulf of Corinth
Osios Loukas is situated on the edge of Mt.
Helikon, unlike Arachova and Delphi, which are
on the slopes of Mt. Parnassos, but all three
sit above the Gulf of Corinth. If you descend
from the mountain to make your way to the
Peloponnese, the large lower half of the Greek
mainland
to which it is now joined by two
bridges, you will pass through three towns along
that gulf. The first is Itea (so named from the
Greek for willows, ities, once prominent in this
locale), which sits at the head of its own small
gulf off the Gulf of Corinth. In recent years
Itea has become something of a resort town and
its harbor activity is further enlivened by the
cruise ships that dock here so that passengers
can make the excursion to Delphi. There is
nothing in Itea to engage those of you en route
to the Peloponnese; you can comfortably proceed
on down to the southern shore of the Gulf of
Itea to Galaxidi. This is a far more interesting
town, for in the 19th Century it was a thriving
port, home of prosperous Greek shipbuilders, sea
captains, and merchants who built fine houses
here. These have been restored in recent decades
and along with a Maritime Museum and numerous
churches, they give Galaxidi a sense of being in
a place with a history.
Proceeding on along the northern coast of the
Gulf of Corinth, the next town of any
consequence is Nafpaktos, and this definitely
has a place in history. During the Middle Ages,
it was known in the West by an Italian name,
Lepanto, and it was here in 1571 that the Turks
outfitted their fleet preparatory to taking on
ships from various cities in Italy and Spain.
Led by Don Juan of Austria, this armada was
Christian Europe's all out effort to stop the
Muslim intrusion into Western Europe, and the
Muslim fleet although aided
by ships sent by Muslim leaders in Algeria and
Egypt to aid the Turkish ships was soundly
defeated. In fact, it was in this battle that a
young Spaniard, Miguel Cervantes, lost the use
of his left hand, but that did not stop him from
writing one of the most admired novels of all
time, Don
Quixote! Aside from this role in naval
battle history, Nafpaktos boasts a fine Venetian
castle, a mosque, and a handsome plateia, or
town square.
If Peloponnese is your goal, and you are
possibly on your way to visiting Olympia,
Mycenae, Epidavros, or Nafplion, you will
proceed on another 5 miles (9 km) to Antirion,
where the Gulf of Corinth comes to its narrowest
point. Long a port for the ferries that plied
back and forth between here and Rion on the
northern coast of the Peloponnese, this is now
where you will move up on to the spectacular new
1.8 mile bridge across the gulf. Designed by a
consortium of Greek, Canadian, and American
engineers, paid for by both Greek government and
private funds, the bridge opened in 2004 in time
for the Olympic Games. Just as the canal at the
eastern end of the Gulf of Corinth fulfilled an
age-old desire to bypass the long route around
the Peloponnese, this bridge fulfills the dream
of joining the western mainland to the
Peloponnese. And passing over it is a fitting
end to this stage of your time in Greece.